CARTAGENA DE LAS INDIAS, COLOMBIA
Colored with vivid hues, cobblestone streets, and colonial architecture, the old-world city of Cartagena and other post-colonial lands paint a alluring story of becoming. Colombia’s beacon is also known as La Heroica, or heroic, named after a story all too familiar.
As a local taxi driver toured us around the city, he shared it's history as a land bound in gold, silver, and precious stones thanks to the Zenú, Indigenous-Colombian natives who were experts in carving and designing gold and other metals. One day, a Spanish invader named Pedro stole the land of its riches including the local chief's daughter Catalina. Thieving and grave roobing his way through Cartagena using Catalina as a translator and interpreter, Pedro deprived the Zenú of their effects leaving them with empty hands and limited resources. Personal violations continued in Cartagena in later years through the enforcement of religious hemogeny creating trauma that would take lifetimes to recover from. Where do you think all the gold in the Vatican city came from?
Simiarly in Puerto Rico, Spanish invaders who conquered the land wiped the natives' access to land and resources, creating lasting insecurity, inequity, and injustice. Named after heroism, Cartagena was the first colony of the Spanish occupation and the first to resist Spanish rule fiercly. Marching forward triumphantly in the face of oppression and outright abuse, descendants of Indigenous Borikén, Zenú, and other Indigenous groups seek light in the darkness. By recliaming their faith, culture, and voice, they heal ancestral wounds and cultivate belongingness.
GASTRONOMY
Want to know my travel secret? Buy local.
Visit local restaurants and street food vendors. Rent a car with small businesses. Shop at boutiques and galleries. Remember you are visiting someone’s home. Being gracious always pays up.
The friendly taxi driver drove us around for the rest of the weekend and recommended dinner at El Muelle, a seafood beachfront restaurant bar. We ordered ceviche, filete de pescado con salsa de limón y coco, pargo frito, a creamy coconut garlic shrimp, and tequila of course. The food was impressive and yet, I thought the pastel sunset reflecting on steady waters was the real treat.
When passing through Getsemaní en route to the umbrella street, I stumbled upon Gelateria Ceiba, drawn to it by its quintessential and eclectic vibe. I recommend stopping by for classic, tropical, and coffee-flavored gelato or their sugar-free options. There is nothing like indulging in creamy gelato during a warm summer day.
STAY
If you don't mind the city bustle, The ESTELAR is the place to be in Cartagena. For under $150 a night, you can escape in a wraparound pool, the city's hottest rooftop bar, or comfortable quarters with a spectacular view. ESTELAR has everything, from world-class service to a delicious continental breakfast including creole dishes. This is by far one of my favorite hotels in the world.
Travel is a gift of life, wonder, and joy. What better gift than the gift of self-love?
“No matter what, nobody can take away the dances you’ve already had.” ― Gabriel García Márquez
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